What Makes a Watch Worth Keeping?

In short: a watch worth keeping has sapphire crystal so it stays clear, a 316L stainless steel case that will not tarnish, a proven movement from a respected maker, at least 50 metres of water resistance, standard replaceable straps, a multi year warranty and something personal that makes it yours. Most of these details never show up in a product photo, which is why they are worth checking.

For twelve years our goal has been simple: make watches people keep. Not watches that look good for a season and end up in a drawer, but ones that are still worn years later. So what actually separates a watch worth keeping from one you will replace? It comes down to a handful of details.

1. Sapphire crystal

The glass is the part of a watch most likely to get damaged. Most affordable watches use mineral glass, which scratches easily against desks, walls and door frames, and those scratches build up into a cloudy face. Sapphire crystal is second only to diamond in hardness and is extremely difficult to scratch. A watch with sapphire will still look clear after years of daily wear.

Look for anti reflective coating as well. It cuts glare so you can read the dial in bright light. Every Hartley watch uses sapphire crystal. Read more in mineral glass vs sapphire.

2. 316L stainless steel

316L is the grade of stainless steel used in quality watches and surgical instruments. It resists corrosion from sweat and salt water, will not tarnish and is gentle on skin. Cheaper alloys and plated base metals can discolour, wear through or react with skin over time.

3. A proven movement

The movement is the engine. Japanese movements from makers like Miyota are known for reliability and are used throughout the industry, from fashion brands to respected watchmakers.

Our Heritage uses Japanese Miyota quartz, and our Legacy uses a 21 jewel Miyota automatic. In a mechanical movement the jewels act as hard wearing bearings that reduce friction, which is a big part of why a mechanical watch can run for decades. Not sure which suits you? See automatic or quartz.

4. Honest water resistance

Water resistance ratings are often misunderstood. 30 metres sounds like a lot, but in practice it only means splash resistant. 50 metres means a watch can handle rain, hand washing and accidental splashes without worry, and it is the level that makes a watch genuinely wearable every day. Every Hartley watch is rated to 50 metres.

5. Straps you can replace

Straps wear out long before a good watch case does. If changing the strap is difficult, or the size is unusual, the whole watch often gets abandoned when the strap gives up. A standard 20mm width with quick release pins means a fresh strap is a 30 second job, so the watch keeps going. Here is how to change your watch strap.

6. A slim, comfortable case

A watch you keep is a watch you actually wear, and that comes down to comfort. A slim case slides under a shirt cuff and does not catch on things. The Heritage is 7mm thick and the Legacy, despite its mechanical movement, is just 11mm.

7. A real warranty

A company that expects its watches to last will say so in writing. Many fashion watches come with one or two years. Every Hartley watch comes with a five year warranty, well beyond the legal minimum. Read the warranty details.

8. Something personal

The watches people keep longest are the ones with a story: a gift, a milestone, a number that means something. That is why every Legacy is numbered and engraved, one of only 125 in its colour. Here is how people choose their number.

A quick checklist before you buy

• Sapphire crystal, ideally anti reflective
• 316L stainless steel case
• A movement from a respected maker
• At least 50 metres water resistance
• Standard strap width with easy strap changes
• A case thin enough to wear every day
• A warranty of several years
• A reason to keep it

Look after it and it will look after you

Store it safely, keep it away from strong magnets, service an automatic every few years, and a good watch will outlast almost everything else you own. See our guide on caring for an automatic watch, or keep your collection safe in a Hartley collector's box.

Frequently asked questions

Is sapphire crystal worth it on a watch?

Yes. It is far more scratch resistant than mineral glass, so the watch stays clear for years.

What does 316L stainless steel mean?

It is a corrosion resistant grade of stainless steel used in quality watches and surgical instruments. It does not tarnish and is gentle on skin.

How long should a good watch last?

With basic care, decades. Mechanical watches can be serviced indefinitely and are often passed down.

What warranty does Hartley offer?

Five years on every watch.